Then by keeping an eye out at the second-hand sales, I picked up some more Stanley sockets from the same era. This started a new set or two of the same brand.
One of these styles of sockets had different shape outer side walls (with a different series/model number) – I would call them goblet shaped.
In the original set there were deep sockets and standard 'depth' sockets; both ranged from 8mm to 19mm in 'nut' size.
In the extras I scored at later sales there were 6-point and 12-point sockets as well as spark plug sockets. I keep them in good quality, period-correct, red metal cases.
Collectively they represent a fair cross section of the typically common types of interchangeable sockets.
Sockets
The standard sized (standard height) sockets are preferred for 'squeezy' situations as they can be used in places where there’s not much room. They are typically the first choice option unless you can clearly see that a deep socket is required.
I went without deep sockets for many years; standard sockets and a set of spanners were the way we did it in the old days. If I needed to work on a long bolt, I simply chose to use a spanner (of any type) and this plan B worked well 99 per cent of the time. In these more modern times the usage envelopes of our tools overlap ; this is a good thing.
Incidentally there is an even lower profile option.
So-called low-profile 3/8" sockets are desirable these days because they may get you some more ratchet- wrench access into tighter spaces.
TTI's marketing says their low-profile sockets are 30 per cent shorter in height than even their standard height 3/8" sockets. Certainly, they squeeze in where my 1/2" sockets do not have a chance.
A socket wrench (a socket and ratchet drive) lets you turn a nut or bolt without having to reposition the tool on the fastener. Thus you can work quickly in short sharp arcs, enabling you to perform the task a lot quicker. Also, since a socket fits completely around a fastener (AKA nut), they're less likely to slip off than some types of wrenches.
6pt Sockets
You’ll find that the basic sockets, both deep and standard, have either six points or twelve points. Six-point sockets are the preferred option when you have to put a lot of torque (force x lever arm length) into loosening a stuck tight nut.
Six-point sockets often have thicker walls too, so they are less likely to flex and slip (or crack and slip).
They are also designed to contact the head of a fastener on the faces and well away from the corners so contact is away from the thin edges of fastener/nut. It is these thin points/corners on the nuts that can fold-over/burr and slip to the point of rounding the corners.
You may also note the edges of a six-point socket are angled/curved back a few degrees so that they don't contact the thin corners. This also allows the socket to slide easily over a fastener. Additionally, due to the restrictive shape of the six-point socket's interior, only the correctly-sized snug-fitting socket will work for a particular bolt/nut.
All these factors mean that you are less likely to damage the bolt head.
I seldom see it mentioned; however it is PIMO to use 6-point sockets when you are using a long breaker bar. I've had catastrophic rounding-the-nut results trying to undo super-tight rattle-gunned wheel nuts with a 1/2" square drive breaker bar with cheater pipe and a 12 point 19mm socket.m